■ CRANDALL LIBRARY ■
» Windom Peak – the Most Awesome 14er Summit
» Humboldt Peak – During the Eclipse
» San Luis Peak – Getting Shocked at Summit
» Humboldt Peak – During the Eclipse
» San Luis Peak – Getting Shocked at Summit
» COLORADO 14ers «
My Favorite 14er Climb Stories
- Pikes Peak is the 2nd most visited mountain in the world. I saved it for last because it has a road to the top so that some friends could climb with me and others could ride to the top to begin the celebration completing a 9-year mission to climb them all. We chose the Crags Trail, and then we had quite a party!
- Mt Wilson stands with the other half-dozen fourteeners that are the most challenging climbs. We chose the Kilpacker approach – grueling boulder-hopping but there’s a rewarding scramble to summit and with less exposure than the traverse-ridge from El Diente.
- August 26, 2017 Windom Peak is one of the really fun Class 3 peaks in the Chicago Basin of the San Juan Range, accessed by the historic Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge train and a long backpack to the basin. The summit is the most unusual of all Colorado’s 14ers and the views everywhere are exquisite. This one was a personal challenge of persistence for me as the San Juans get the first dibs on bad weather both from the west and the monsoons from the south.
- Humboldt Peak is a moderate 14er in the Sangre de Cristo Range that features a beautiful setting framed by the Crestones all the way to summit. We had the added attraction of climbing it on August 21, 2017 during the solar eclipse that hit 90% where we were.
- A shocking (literally hair-raising) story. We found this approach was the best. Even summiting at 10am we got hit by multiple electrical storm cells that arose with no warning and discharged into us right at summit! We ran and got sufficiently down before the discharges took the form of full lightning bolts.
- El Diente – A Hard Mountain in the San Juan Range El Diente is not often climbed and indeed it has its challenges. We liked the south ridge approach from the Kilpacker trailhead. From that direction the view of El Diente is impressive and the Kilpacker Basin is a feast for the eyes.
- Wilson Peak is prominent in the Telluride area. We had to make two attempts, once from the Rock of Ages trailhead and once camping at Navajo Lake. This is a fun, challenging Class 3 mountain. Wilson Peak - First Try
- Wilson Peak is prominent in the Telluride area. We had to make two attempts, once from the Rock of Ages trailhead and once camping at Navajo Lake. This is a fun, challenging Class 3 mountain.
- Capitol Peak is undoubtedly the standard bearer of all the fourteeners in Colorado. It features a very long boulder hike/climb to a sub-summit called K2 at 13,688’ followed by a knife-edge ridge crawl to the Capitol summit cap. The final push is a 550’ Class 4 climb to summit.
- Mt. Elbert at 14,440’ is the tallest in the State of Colorado, but one of the easiest to walk up. It is usually many hikers’ first tall peak. I first climbed it in 2002, loved it, but didn’t do a second 14er until 2009. Then in 2016 as prep for harder mountains I did it again.
- This is a pure climbing story because this mountain is a skilled-climbers’ mountain that most recognize as one of the two most difficult of all 57 Colorado fourteeners.
- Crestone Needle is generally recognized as being in the top 5 in climbing difficulty of all the Colorado 14ers. It is characterized by sustained Class 3 rock climbing (for hours) although on rock that is unusually climber-friendly.
- “Crestone Peak, or “The Peak” as known among many climbers, is one of the “double-black diamond” 14ers for climbers. It and its companion fourteener, Crestone Needle were the last of all the fourteeners to be scaled back in the 1920’s. This remote and rugged mountain was once thought impossible to climb.”
- with a 130-year old Eagle trap at summit …and close encounters with hungry bears.
- We went at this mountain from the closed Jennings Creek trailhead, avoiding the erosion causing the closure. Early-season climbing into snow – and finally discovering the “right way” to summit. Celebrating with Walter Hansel Pinot Noir at the Peak.
- Climbing North Maroon with Andy Mishmash changes a dangerous climb into pure joy. This peak is notorious for casualties but with care watching for loose rock and someone experienced in route finding, North Maroon becomes one of the most beautiful fourteener climbs. The views on the way up and from summit are stunning
- Mt. Eolus is a more challenging 14er in the San Juan Range accessible only by the 130 year old Denver & Rio Grande narrow-gauge train and then backpacking to the Chicago Basin. This mountain features a narrow, exposed “Catwalk” and some good Class 3 rock climbing.
- To avoid the busy and rough Lake Como Road and the crowds at Lake Como camp-sites we followed an alternate route from South Zapata Lake. The route to summit was long, rocky, loose and cold on the shady side of the peak. We did get to see Big Horn Sheep for my 1st sighting.
- A challenging mountain summited with son Brett Crandall in a nearly 19 hour day from dark to dark.
- Starting in Lake City, a Colorado classic western town in the San Juan Range; Hiking, climbing from the American Basin, a caldera left over from the volcanic activity millions of years ago making for a picturesque and very snowy day.
- As a birthday climb with balloons!
- These were two great mountains in the Sangre de Cristos. This was a 15 hour day including backpacking out to the trailhead. At the Kit Carson summit, the Crestones (Peak and Needle) hovered behind us as if to say: “Try me, we get even more difficult”
- Mount Massive is the third highest peak in the lower 48 states framing Leadville, CO which is the highest city in the United States. Massive is a huge mountain with five summits over 14,000’ We climbed it from the North Halfmoon Creek trailhead. We saw the rare white Marmot all grown up from the juvenile we saw on an earlier climb.
- Mt. Belford and Mt. Oxford are two fourteeners in the Sawatch Range that includes the Collegiates near Buena Vista. We decided to climb these two peaks under the light of the first full moon of summer, called the “Super Moon” since it is when the moon is closest to earth and hence appears at its largest.
- A solo attempt in 2009 redone in 2013 to nab both peaks. Castle and Conundrum are fourteeners visible from home. Unique among most mountain routes, snow fields are present well into the summer on the descent from this pair affording uphill trekking with crampons and fun downhill glissading with ice ax arrests.
- Two fourteeners near Buena Vista in the Collegiates subset of the Sawatch Range. Mt. Harvard is a delight especially from campsite near tree line, but Columbia was as loose, steep and ugly as any fourteener.
- Quandary Peak is one of the most popular mountains to hike, a Class One “walk-up.” Rocky the Australian Terrier summited for the first time. He’s the grandson of “the fourteener dog” Emme who, after 17 summits has passed the age of 12.
- The Maroon Bells near Aspen are generally recognized as the most photographed peaks in North America, especially during Fall colors. Climbing them is an adventure – a mix of pleasures – Class 3 rock climbing, dealing with a notoriously loose mountian, a very long approach slope and narrow ledges.
- Pyramid Peak near Aspen, one of the most challenging fourteeners with its narrow ledges, Leap of Faith, Class 4 Green Wall and the impressive Amphitheater; climbed during fall aspen colors with climbing expert Andy Mishmash.
- Mt. Shavano with its Angel of Shavano gully is the flagship fourteener associated with the town of Salida: the “angel” can be seen with arms raised insdie the yellow circle. Also in this article are pragmatic mountain weather forecasting notes mainly using cloud formations.
- Longs Peak is one of the most aggressive Class 3 mountains featuring named pitches starting at the "keyhole." The "ledges", "the trough," "the narrows," and "homestretch."
- A famous Colorado fourteener for its snow-gully Cross and proclaimed Holy Cross National Monument by Herbert Hoover, it is the subject of the poem “The Cross of Snow” by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
- Sunlight Peak is great rock climbing fun and in the most beautiful Range in Colorado. It is accessed from Chicago Basin which is accessed by a 7 mile backpack after riding an historic narrow-gauge train ride and jumping off between Durango and Silverton.
- Culebra Peak is the only privately-owned fourteener. It is accessed from San Luis, only 8 miles from the New Mexico border. The town, formed in 1851, has the striking "Chapel of All Saints and a world-famous shrine called Stations of the Cross.
- Little Bear Peak – standard route judged to be the most difficult standard route of all Colorado fourteeners, and I learned why. Accessible up the worst road in Colorado. We ran into a bear raid and a snowstorm to boot – a multiple adventure.
- A fourteener in the Collegiates that is a modest step up from a “walk-up.
- Mt. Lindsey is one of the new Class of climbs we're doing – loose, steep gullies and playing roulette with the weather.
- Mt. Antero in the Collegiates, the highest mineral-laden terroir in the country.
- Redcloud and Sunshine Peaks, both fourteeners in the San Juan Range, can be done together, but the only way down is to climb Redcloud again on the return. A long day, 12 miles and 4,800' elevation gain. Emme, the amazing Australian Terrier, did all three summits, 9 ½ hours effort and she's 10 ½ years old.
- Wetterhorn notches up in difficulty the fourteener adventures. This climb was done with the leadership of Andy Mishmash, a friend and highly accomplished Class 5++ ice and rock climber.
- Mt. Evans is the closest and one of the most visible peaks to Denverites. It has a paved road to within 130’ of the summit, the highest in North America. However the climbing approach to the Mt. Evans summit takes the more circuitous and challenging route that summits Mt. Bierstadt first, then traverses a ridge called the Sawtooth all the way to the Sawtooth.
- Grays Peak is the highest U.S. peak on the Continental Divide. High winds almost blew us off Torreys!
- A nice 14er, not too aggressive. Now we’ve done all the South Park 14ers!
- Starting in Ouray, a Colorado classic western town in the San Juan Range; Hiking, climbing one of the most picturesque of Colorado’s peaks over 14,000’ altitude.
- La Plata is a bigger climb - 4500’ of vertical, 10 miles roundtrip, rocky underfoot and can have some snow on the route. It is close to Aspen but without the loose rock of the Elk Range.
- Uncompahgre Peak from the Nellie Creek trailhead is not difficult, but a great day’s outing with sheer beauty all around. The San Juans sport some of the most beautiful mountain scenery of all the ranges in Colorado, although no single mountain would rival the Maroon Bells for volume of photo count.
- An Aspen Times article announced that Emme, our Australian Terrier, was going to attempt four of the state’s peaks over 14,000’ as a fundraiser for the Animal Aspen Shelter and the Canine Health Foundation. She succeeded.summiting Mt. Democrat, Mt. Cameron, Mt. Lincoln & Mt. Bross all in one day.
- Yale Mountain is one of the Collegiates in the Sawatch Range accessed from Buena Vista just over Independence Pass from Aspen. I was joined by our Australian Terrier Emme and son Brett, his dog Amos. Emme, at 20 lbs and short terrier legs – was to go on to hike/climb 17 fourteeners, raising funds for the Aspen Animal Shelter.
- Huron Peak is a nice, easy Class 2 hike starting just above the partially restored ghost town of Winfield and through a pretty meadow with great wildflowers.
» OTHER CLIMBS «
Other Climb Stories
- Mt. Daly is on the other side of the saddle from Capitol Peak. It is one of the most visible mountains to those traveling between Aspen and Snowmass. While not a 14er, it is a named 13er with a fun Class 3 ridge-crest climb that is less frequently done. There is also not much written about the best way up, solved here in this story.
- Difficulty: Class 2 Exposure: None Summit: 13,193’ Elevation Gain: 1800’ Roundtrip: 7 miles Trailhead: Independence Pass parking lot at 12,050’ Climbers: Route 1: Rick Crandall; Rick Peckham July 11, 2015 Route 2: Rick Crandall, Shan Stuart & Emme the 14er Dog July 20, 2006
- Superstition Mountain – hidden gold, subterranean extra-terrestrials, Indian legends and a big day of bouldering and rock climbing. Fortunately no cactus jabs or rattlesnake strikes.
- Twining Peak, 13,711’ near Aspen, Class 2 and dog-friendly. Also called Blue Peak, it is approached on a largely unmarked route that summits Blarney Peak first in order to access a saddle and ridge to Twining. Emme and Alfie, Australian Terriers made the summit with us.
- Grizzly Peak is the tallest of all 584 thirteeners in Colorado. We did some route finding to get the best way up – and got up close and personal with "gendarmes."
- Mt. Sopris is the icon of the Aspen/Roaring Fork Valley – Happy Birthday to Brett Crandall! This has some route detail since there is not much Mt. Sopris route information that I could find. While not a fourteener, it is a big mountain from bottom to top!
» EARLY MUSIC MACHINES «
- “Listen to a selection of O-Roll music played on the Coinola SO – scroll down, click on any tune or sheet music cover” The history of the development of Coinola machines and the O-Roll format can be found at https://www.rickcrandall.net/a-nickel-for-music-in-the-early-1900s-evolution-of-the-american-orchestrion/ . The O-roll was introduced in 1913. It features perforations for extra instruments plus a […]
- Over 700 of the total 1270 “O” Rolls estimated ever made by QRS, Columbia, Capitol and Clark are catalogued and presented including tune composers.
- The complete catalog of all 933 music rolls ever originally produced by Hupfeld for the Phonoliszt-Violina: Catalog Sorted by Roll Number Catalog Sorted by Composer. Also provided is the catalog of the 250 rolls chosen from over 20 collections and museums – and recut with the goal of producing the "reference set" of music for the PV.
- The heyday of American coin-operated automatic music instruments was from 1898 – 1928. Perforated-paper music rolls were an important medium for national distribution of music including blues, jazz, rags and dance tunes. The Coinola SO “super orchestrion,” rare today, was the pinnacle of American-made music machines playing the highly-acclaimed Columbia and Capitol O-roll arrangements.
- Phonoliszt-Violina: In the 1900 to 1930's the automatic music machine replaced live performers accelerated by union pressures for uneconomic rates for performers. Many types of player pianos, orchestrions, and violin and banjo players) grew rapidly as an early musical media for playing music in commercial locations and homes.
- 1915 coin-operated mechanical orchestra with banjo made by Engelhardt Piano Company; helped make ragtime a national music form;; music by National Music Roll Co.;
- The Peerless line of coin-op player pianos, nickelodeons and orchestrions were the earliest roll-operated coin-operated music machines on the market; Companies involved were the Roth & Engelhardt Co., Peerless Piano Player Co., National Music Roll Co., Engelhardt Seybold Co. and Engelhardt Piano Company.
- The Automatic Harp invented by J.W. Whitlock and popularized by the Wurlitzer Company. Whitlock was a classic American inventor, business leader and entrepreneur who became the heart and soul of Rising Sun, Indiana in the early 1900’s. His life, his inventions, his boat-racing competitions on the Ohio River and his businesses are described in a storied life pursuing the American Dream. The Harp is an early automatic music machine that helped spread ragtime as a national music...
- The Gabel Automatic Entertainer dates to 1905 and is the very first disc record-changing multi-selection phonograph invented by John Gabel; His Automatic Machine and Tool Company competed with Victor in massive patent fights that Gabel finally won. The Entertainer took first in several Exposition competitions for tone quality including over Victor and others. This article includes important disclosures from the diary that John Gabel kept while he was doing his inventing of both...
- 1910 German-made mechanical orchestra shipped through newly-opened Panama Canal to Nevada City, California to play in a gold rush saloon owned by Ernie Schreiber. Named the Popper Felix orchestrion, it has extensive instrumentation for playing classical as well as popular music. Uncovered by Rick Crandall, restored by Hayes McClaren and now in the Jim Krughoff collection.
- Coin-operated musical instruments; Gay 90’s America; coin-op nickelodeon Encore Automatic Banjo; Mills Novelty Company slot machines; Violano Virtuoso automatic violin player; scuba underwater photography; Wildflower photography.
- The Encore Automatic Banjo is one of the first commercialized automatic coin-op music machines in1897. It operated from a perforated paper roll controlled in similar fashion to player pianos. This article is based on original company records of the American Automusic Company and the Auto-Manufacturing Company.
» EARLY INVENTIONS «
- Based on a pneumatic principle by physicist Heron of Alexandria in AD 62, the Automatic Crystal Fountain combines beauty with captivating geyser-like fountain using no apparent motive power.
- John Gabel: His personal account of immigrating to America, overcoming great odds; his role creating the gaming machines that fueled the early growth of the Mills Novelty Company (the Klondyke, Monte Carlo, Kalamazoo and The Owl). Then in 1897 he started his own company, the Automatic Machine & Tool Company, inc. rising to success creating and selling coin-op gambling, music and automatic vending machines.
- Pelstar, LLC: 91 Years evolution of the Health o meter Doctors beam scale; Rick Crandall, Executive Chairman.Pelstar, LLC: 97 Years of evolution from the original invention of the Health o meter™ doctor’s beam scale. In 2016 Pelstar was honored with the Private Company Board of the Year Award, growing at triple the market rate and achieving top market share in the Americas while practicing exceptional Board and Company governance. Rick Crandall, Executive Chairman
- James Ritty invention of the cash register 1878; Incorruptible Cashier; Cash Recording Machine first cash register; National Cash Register Company (NCR) founded by John Patterson, history of marketing; Thomas Watson Sr. fired from NCR, founded IBM based on International Time Recording Company & Computer-Tabulating-Recording; Rick Crandall and Sam Robins authors. Out of print but some available: Purchase at https://www.rickcrandall.net/shop-3/
- Created by Charles Fey circa 1907 and followed by Caille in 1911, both seeking a departure from the onslaught of 3-reel slot machines. Fancy graphics and interesting play kept this machine in the lineup for over a decade.
- The Domino is a payout gambling machine that was invented by an Englishman, based in France, manufactured in Germany and sold mainly for the U.S. market in the 1920’s.
- The origins of the famous Uncle Sam national imagery and how it made its way into Arcade machine “art.” The very rare Caille and Howard Uncle Sam coin-operated strength tester machines.
- The 1890's: Pioneering risk-takers defined by the California Gold Rush; battle-tested by the 1906 earthquake; Charlie Fey invents the Liberty Bell slot machine creating an industry that persists to this day.
- Caille coin-op machines; player pianos; coin-operated gambling; trade stimulators; Automatic Chime Bells; Toledo Orchestrion; Berliner Multiphone; music boxes;
- 1930’s Alden Scott Boyer created Chicago Coin Club and the Chicago Coin Device Museum; first coin-op machines museum; roll-operated musical instruments; player piano; coin-operated machines; perforated roll music; pneumatic mechanisms; collecting coin-op machines; Svoboda’s Nickelodeon Tavern
» COMPUTER HISTORY «
- First computer host to connect to the Internet; SDS 930; Scientific Data Systems; Stanford Research Institute (SRI); Bolt, Berenak & Newman IMP, IMP2; ARPA Network; Where the Wizards Stay Up Late;
- Founding of Comshare 1966; Rick Crandall timesharing pioneer; joint development with Tymshare, U. Cal. Berkeley; interactive computing; SDS930; SDS940; Scientific Data Systems Sigma 9; timesharing operating systems; early tech IPO in 1968; Crandall Chairman of ADAPSO; ITAA; transition to software products; System W; decision support system; multi-dimensional modeling; On Line Analytical Processing (OLAP), distributed computing; Xerox PARC; interactivity; EIS; Executive Information...
- Steve Wosniak and Steve Jobs invention of the Apple 1; formation of Apple Computer Company; major improvement over the Teletype; forshadowing the eventual decline of timesharing; Southwest Technical Products PR 40 alphanumeric printer for Apple I; Larry Nelson original Apple 1 owner and sale to Rick Crandall.
- Starting in 1964 University of Michigan Computing Center; Joint development among Comshare (Rick Crandall), Tymshare (Tom O’Rourke, Dave Schmidt, Ann Hardy, Norm Hardy), SDS & U Cal Berkeley (Butler Lampson, Mel Pirtle and Peter Deutsch) in 1965 to 1966; start of multiplexors and networks; transition to software; IBM partnership; ADAPSO IIA merger attempt; partnership with Dow Jones; decision support systems; EIS and Xerox PARC; Enterprise Software Roundtable – software CEO...
- Comshare partnership with IBM; EIS marketplace; IBM Cooperative Software Agreement: competition in Executive Information Systems; Execuchart; EIS Briefing Book; IBM Systems Application Architecture, SAA partners; Dow Jones partnership with a software company; partnership with MSA Management Sciences America John Imlay; Comshare transition from timesharing to a software company.
- History of computer software and services; competition with IBM, history of Adapso advocacy; formation and growth of ADAPSO; Non-tariff trade barriers; software as a distinct industry; software international balance of payments; example of ADAPSO helping ComShare transition to a software company
- influence of Xerox PARC visit in 1978; Xerox Alto; first mouse, icons, graphical human interfaces; GUI,WYSIWYG, development of Executive Information Systems 1984; EIS; touch screen graphical human factors; Commander EIS; Executive use of computers; executive computing; the CEO Goes On Line; Jack Rockart, business graphics; Strategic Information At Your Fingertips; Warren Mcfarlan at Harvard Business School teaching EIS; first ISV partnership with IBM Information Center; IBM marketing...
- Comshare history; Comshare timeline chronology; transition from timesharing to software; Execuchart mouse based graphics terminal; Executive team Kevin Kalkhoven; Dick Eidswick; Ian McNaught Davis; Don Devine; Wally Wrathall; Ann Arbor, Michigan’s focus on research and technology
- the early challenges managing time-sharing systems; load balancing, scalability, human factors; interactive languages; review of in-house vs. commercial timesharing services
» OTHER STORIES «
- Giga Information Group; new-model technology advisory; separation of Chairman and CEO positions.
- Brett and Rick on a dive adventure beginning with the tail end of Typhoon Haiyen and then featuring sharks, mantas, caves, wrecks, a lake with 5 million jellyfish and the elusive but astonishing Mandarin fish. We were on a live-aboard, the Ocean Hunter I, a small boat well-suited to our quest for adventure.
- Near the tip of South America, highly sculptured towers and horns emerging abruptly from the pampas. 65 miles of hiking accomplishing the “W” signature series to the Italian, French and British camps where climbers have attempted these fearsome towers mostly unsuccessfully due to freezing cold, incessant high winds and challenging climbing.
- Aspen Sojourner article on the Crandall home in Aspen: “Combine work, fitness, active lifestyle in mountain setting, Aspen, Colorado;” Also Wall St. Journal Article and Photos: “Views Plus Totem Pole.”
- Nat Crandall in the historic 45th (Thunderbird) Division landing at Anzio Beach; following Patton across France; crossing the Siegfried Line; Bronze star heroics; fighting the German Winter Elite troops, Dachau liberation – and the saving, restoring and putting back into service of Holocaust Torah Scrolls.
- Brett and Rick: The Galapagos’ remote islands of Wolf and Darwin has some of the most exciting “big fish” diving with Galapagos Sharks, Orcas, Sea Lions, hundreds of Hammerhead sharks and the biggest fish in the ocean – the Whale Shark.
- The famous carver, Duane Pasco studied the original carving styles of the Pacific Northwest from pre-1900 and re-discovered a nearly lost art. He created this pole in the authentic style and now teaches authentic carving to the native carvers in the Northwest. Includes mythical stories of Thunderbird, Frog, Dolphin and more.